After El Calafate I stop for 4 days in the lake district, a region north of Patagonia (some people even say it is not Patagonia). Small trivia: Patagonia is believed to mean "the country of the people with big feet" and was named like this in 1520 by 1.55 m-tall Spaniards (Sarkozy would have felt at ease with them) when they met indigenes Tehuelches - whose size was about 1.80 m on average - and were impressed by the size of their feet.
The main city in the lake district is a cute and relatively small town and ski resort laying on the banks of beautiful lake Nahuel Huapi called San Carlos de Bariloche (but everyone calls it Bariloche, apparently I'm the only one who finds that strange although I agree it sounds better and more special than just San Carlos).
The region has dozens of dark blue lakes and sits geographically at the door of the Andes, just miles away from Chile. Snowy peaks fill the skyline all around and plunge in the lakes. It makes me think of Switzerland and of Grenoble and I already feel like home here.
Following the advice of various locals and people who know the region well, I rent a car to drive `la ruta de los siete lagos´. It is a windy and picturesque road that passes through lakes (7 of them) and wonderful scenery (waterfalls and lush forests). When I bought a map the morning before, the store clerk tried to warn me that the road was not finished. I understood the meaning of "ruta ripia" soon enough. The distance is not great between San Carlos de Bariloche and San Martin de los Andes (about 150 kms) but it took me more than 4 hours due to the poor quality of the road. Moreover, I forgot to charge my camera battery so I
couldn't take any picture along the way. I guess you will have to believe me when I tell you the landscape along this road is splendid, even under pouring rain!
The Lanin Volcano and National Park
The next day I continue north a little past Junin de los Andes on my way to Chile to see the Lanin volcano. At 3747 m it dominates with majesty the eponymous National Park. I stop a little before the international border because I'm not sure I can enter Chile with my rental car. I come back by the mythical Ruta 40, the one the Che used on his trip across South America that participated in feeding his sense of revolt, except I'm not riding a motocycleta and I'm also going it in the opposite direction, going back to Bariloche towards the south. I still try to imagine what it may have felt like: there is something about this country that makes it seem like it's made for traveling!
La Ruta 40 above the Northern Branch of Lago Nahuel Huapi near San Carlos de Bariloche
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